Maintenance & Safety » Maintenance FAQs

1. How do I care for my new pool’s plaster finish?

2. What else do I need to know about the plaster finish?

3. How do I back wash my DE filter?

4. How much DE should I put in my DE filter and how do I add it?

5. When should I backwash or clean my filter?

6. How do I clean the basket inside my pump?

7. How do I prime my pump?

8. What is the proper chemical balance for my pool?

1. How do I care for my new pool’s plaster finish?

A marcite plaster pool interior is a time-tested, durable pool finish, superior to any paint or fiber-tech finish. Brush all areas of the pool surface as much as possible for the first 10 days after the pool is filled for the first time. You should continue with weekly brushings for the life of your pool. The cleaning action of an automatic cleaner is NOT adequate. You need to use a brush!

• Plaster is not intended to be a slick finish. It is designed to provide you with a non-slip, long lasting pool interior.
• A plaster finish is not perfect or flawless. You will be able to see some indications of its "hand troweled" workmanship. The plaster mix normally has some small speck of other colors.
• An underwater light will magnify the trowel marks and cast shadow, giving the bottom a "wavy" appearance, This is a normal effect on all plastered pools.
• It is normal for some small "check cracks" to appear in the plaster surface. These do not represent any deterioration in the integrity of the plaster nor will they cause any water leakage.
• Your plaster surface may naturally have some "streaks" or "blotches," A perfect, uniform all white surface cannot be obtained with plaster. It is also normal for some mild discoloration to appear in parts of the pool as it ages. A mild acid wash of the plaster surface will generally remove most discoloration and stains that may build up over time. Please contact The Clearwater Company for more details.
• Never drain your pool without professional supervision. The drying effect of air and sun can cause extensive damage to the plaster. Likewise, your pool is subject to extensive damage due to "floating" any time your pool is drained.

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• Turn the pump off.
• Stretch the backwash hose out to where you want to discharge the water.
• Rotate the handle on the front of the filter to the backwash position.
• Turn the pump on and run until the water coming out of the hose turns clear (approx. 2-3 minutes).
• Turn the pump off, wait 60 seconds and turn the pump back on for another 10 to 15 seconds.
• Turn the pump off.
• Move the valve on front of the filter to the rinse position and run pump for 5 seconds.
• Return the valve on front of the filter to the filter position.
• Turn the pump back on.
• Recharge the filter with DE (see below).

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36 sq. ft. = 4.5 lbs., 48 sq. ft. = 6 lbs. and 60sq. ft. = 7.5 lbs. Fill a small bucket about 3/4 full of DE (or less if that's too much DE for your filter). Add water until it is a thick slurry. Turn the pool pump on and the pool cleaner off. Remove the basket from the skimmer and slowly pour the DE slurry into the skimmer. If you need to add more DE, repeat this process until you have added the correct amount. Replace the skimmer basket and turn your pool cleaner back on. Note: Pouring the DE directly into the skimmer without mixing it with water first can cause excessive caking of DE on the grids.

Note:
You should take your DE filter apart, remove the grids and clean out the caked-on DE once a year. A high pressure hose will usually do the job. To avoid injury, always turn pump off and open the air relief valve before disassembly of a filter.

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Backwash your filter (cartridge filters - remove and clean the cartridge) when the pressure is 10psi higher than your "clean filter with pool cleaner on" pressure or every 90 days, whichever is first.

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Turn your equipment off. Unscrew the clear plastic lid on top of the pump, you will hear the water draining out of the system when you do this. Lift the plastic basket out of the pump and empty it. You may tap it gently against a pipe to dislodge debris or use a hose to spray it out. Make sure it is put back into the pump the same way you took it out. You must now re-prime the pump. See the next paragraph on re-priming the pump.

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Make sure the rubber "O" ring that fits on the pump lid, and the lid itself, are clean of dirt and debris. Use dish detergent to clean them if necessary. Also clean out the groove on top of the pump where the "O" ring will fit. Use a little "Aqua-lube" or, if you don't have that, salad oil to wet the "O" ring before you slip it back on the lid (do not use Vaseline or other petroleum product). Have about 2 gallons of water in a pail, or your hose, ready and fill the pump with water before you put the lid on. Don't be shy here, dump it in as fast as you can. The water will drain out about as fast as you pour it in. Quickly screw the lid back on the pump and turn the pump on right away. All of the water will disappear from inside the pump but it will gradually fill up again. After you turn the pump back on, make sure the lid is firmly screwed down (it is not necessary to make it as tight as possible), and open the air relief valve on top of your filter. Air will gradually begin to squirt out. Wait until water starts squirting out, more or less in a steady stream, and close the air valve. Check your filter gauge to make sure it is showing pressure.

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The two most important factors in maintaining water balance are Total Alkalinity and pH.

TOTAL ALKALINITY is the key to water balance. When the alkalinity level is low, corrosion of equipment and interior surfaces such as plaster and tile grout may occur, resulting in spot etching, roughness and streaks. It is recommended that you adjust alkalinity before adjusting the pH level of the pool.

pH control is an absolute necessity. The pool's pH is measured on a scale from 0 to 14, with the neutral point at 7. Pool water is best when maintained in a slightly base condition to prevent staining and so as not to cause excessive corrosion to the plaster surface or metal parts in the pool. A proper pH reading should be between 7.4 and 7.6. If pH adjustment is required, muriatic acid can be used to lower the pH. To raise the pH you may add soda ash directly to the pool water in the deepest part of the pool. Do this away from return outlets, pool lights, and skimmer. Caution: Handle all acids with the greatest care. Always add acid in the morning and never add acid at the same time you add chlorine.

Chlorine
Chlorine control is necessary for the control of bacteria and algae. Chlorine is measured on a scale .6 to 3.0. To prevent the growth of algae and bacteria, your pool water should be maintained with a reading of 1.0 in cooler months and a 1.5 reading for the hottest time of the year.

Hardness
As water evaporates and tap water is added, calcium remains and builds. The tendency of pool water is to increase in hardness (calcium and magnesium in suspension) caused by the constant evaporation of pool water. Do not attempt to lower calcium hardness without strict supervision. Acceptable readings for hardness are between 200 and 300 PPM. Hardness can be raised quickly by adding calcium directly to the pool water. Once the hardness reaches 600 PPM, however, the pool water should be drained completely and refilled.

Never drain your pool without professional supervision. The drying effect of air and sun can cause extensive damage to your plaster, or your pool may become damaged due to "floating."

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